Brussels bounties
What to say about Brussels? I had a three-day visit to an old friend back in October during a particularly busy period in work and life. To be honest, my main joy was in having no deadlines, meetings or urgent requests, no nursery pick ups or toddler to negotiate into clothes. But the joy was also simply in engaging with Brussels at a slower pace, making my own itinerary and absorbing the small details. So here are some details, in word and image. My autumn timing was perfect for crisp, sunny, leaf-filled wandering.
One thing I enjoyed was the variety of architectural styles. Of course the art nouveau for which Brussels is often known, but also the baroque and neo-gothic historic centre, with the contemporary interventions cutting through to make compelling views and juxtapositions.
The museums are scattered throughout these different architectures. I started with the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, meeting old and new friends among the Dutch and Flemish works, focusing in on still lifes, landscapes, and the rich costumes in portraits.
Onto the Magritte Museum, I enjoyed the comparison of objects observed and represented through Magritte’s developing surrealist lens as opposed to traditional still life, alongside the contemporary spaces.
I also found the richness of Brussels’ churches a marvel. So much artistry to enjoy, particularly in the carving and stonework. I was especially enthralled by the black and white Sepulchral Chapel of the Princes de la Tour et Tassis in Notre-Dame du Sablon.
The Musical Instruments Museum is a marvel of art and technology. Both its carefully restored art nouveau building and its extraordinarily rich and diverse collections, simply but beautifully and informatively displayed.
But my unexpected highlight I found quite by accident during an undirectional meander around the Art and History Museum. The Heart Museum is the creation of cardiologist Noubar Boyadjian, an absolute cabinet of curiosities capturing the symbolism of the heart in Western culture across time periods and media. Just a small gem, it captured me for over an hour and is such a beautiful example of the powerful overlaps of art and science. So compelling at the macro and micro level that photos just don’t do it justice!
